Step 4: Your MACE! Ooh, burn!
Now that the parts have all been cut, here’s the easy part- Asskicker, assemble!
Remember those orange (blue colored in the diagrams) blocks I told you to cut carefully and save? Get those out and grab some glue. Those two pieces are going to add stability to the mace, which comes in handy since we got rid of the screw posts.
Again, read this step in it’s entirety before you actually try to do it.
What we need to do is glue both pieces on one of the mace halves, but we also need to make sure that there is room enough for the handle to slide past them. We do this by setting each piece on the mace, then doing a meticulous guesstimate of how much to cut off. Too much is better than too little, but too much will make your mace look worse around the handle.
That’s right, I had you cut carefully around each orange block, and now I’m going to have you cut into the blocks anyway. But hey, you’ll get a neater looking mace with neater trimmed orange blocks.
Use these pictures as a guide as you cut.
The next two pictures have each of the halves combined, but without the flames in the middle. Notice that there will be three main points of stability for the mace, with one at the tip and the other two near the handle. Additional stability will be provided by the flames as they sit securely in the middle.
The two orange pieces also keep the flames from sliding out the bottom of the mace.
Here is an exposed view of the mace with the flames inside.
And here is an exposed view of the mace with the flames extended.
Hopefully by now you have a pretty good idea of how the mace works, but just in case, here are the two positions that result from this fully assembled mod.
The flames pop out by pushing the handle up into the ball. As you can see, the flames pop out pretty far, and much further than Peaugh’s mod.
Not only that, but the inner curve of the flame lines up with the curve of the top of the mace, so the mod ends up looking like it was made to do this.
Plus there’s a satisfying ‘click’ when the flames pop in and out, thanks to the friction as they slide around the spike at the top.
I’d recommend cutting and adjusting each block, gluing one on, testing it again with the flames, then gluing the other one on. After that, put the flame piece inside, put glue on the two blocks and on the spike at the top, put the halves together, press for a bit, and then let the glue set.
Once it’s dry, enjoy your new fully flaming flail!
Join me tomorrow as I show you how to save your Swoop from stress!