More drilling and then assembly in the ultimate step of the ultimate Ravage tail mod guide!
Step 6, Unbob the tail
So today’s the conclusion to the Ravage tail fix, so naturally we’re going to work on actually assembling it. That’s easy enough at first, because the bulk of it is just feeding a twist tie through each hole on each piece of the tail. Where it gets tricky is getting the tail to attach to Ravage, and getting the tip to attach so the tail doesn’t fall apart.
You could just glue the wire on there, but what if something does happen and it breaks? The twist tie needs to be easily replaceable, and that’s not going to happen if you’re using glue.
There is a way to do it, and here’s how!
Lets deal with the tip of the tail first. It’s a modified design of the basic tail piece that we’ve been using, and we don’t want to damage the ball joint for the barbed piece. Thankfully there is enough plastic below the ball joint to carefully make a hole just underneath it.
Here’s a picture of how to drill through the piece. (The barbed tip has been removed to reduce clutter while the piece is getting drilled.)
Notice it goes just underneath the ball joint. This piece is one where you want to be very careful and drill precisely. If you do nick the cup a little, the wire should replace the drilled out part, but don’t even take that chance. Just go slow and steady, making sure you do it right!
After that, run the wire up through the hole and then through all the standard tail pieces, paying attention to which way they should be facing. Here’s where having a twist tie that’s longer than the tail comes in handy, as it’s much better to have a lot of excess at both ends of the tail (for now.)
Here’s a couple of pictures of the wire through the tip, just in case there is still any confusion.
I’ve colored the wire green and the tail pieces are colored blue to differentiate them from the barbed section.
Make sure all the pieces are on there snugly against each other. Here’s where you can see that the slight distortion from the clippers really helps in the articulation, giving the pieces just enough room to work around each other but still sit snugly without gaps.
Now lets deal with the base piece. Much like the tip of the tail, this is an altered version of the standard tail piece. Instead of avoiding a ball joint, this time we’re going to avoid hitting the pin. Easy enough, and here’s a picture showing how!
Pay attention to the angle, as it starts out like usual but angles down to come out below the piece with the pin. Overall, a much easier hole to drill than on the tip piece, as the pin’s section is bigger and in a harder spot to hit.
Once you’re done with that, thread the wire through the base piece, make sure the pieces are all nice and tight against each other, and then put Ravage back together.
Now that you’ve got him back together, we need to secure the wire and cut off the excess. This is the part that makes the twist tie so easy to replace. Instead of gluing it, we’re going to anchor the twist tie on the tail itself!
There are a couple of ways to do this, one more pretty and one more practical.
The Easy Way
This is the method I used, and I recommend it.
The tip of the tail is easy enough to do. Just take the wire and do a bit of an extreme 90 degree bend in it. You’ll want it snug against the flat underside piece. You don’t have to be too exact here, just make it tight.
For the tail base, I opted to wrap the wire completely around the base’s flat protrusion (not the spike on the top, but the flat section on the bottom). The reason for this is that the base supports the weight of the tail, and if it is unsecured the tail can actually rotate on its own. Securing the tail completely fixes this so there’s not even an inkling of it.
Don’t worry, the wires aren’t very noticeable. They stand out more in these pictures because they’ve been edited to do that. You’ll hardly notice it in person!
Click the image above for a high quality version of the picture.
The Pretty Way
So what if you want Ravage not to have any exposed wire, but want the wire to still be replaceable?
There is a way, but it requires more work. No pictures of this, since I didn’t end up doing it, but if you can do the previous steps of the mod then this should be easy enough to understand.
Glue a piece of scrap plastic to each tip of the wire. You can use the bits from the scrap tail pieces if you want, and just trim them down to a good size. With just a small piece of plastic on there (and a tight hold with the glue), you’ll have a tail that’s still nice and tight (the plastic pieces will keep the tips of the wire from going further back into the holes) without any gray wire kibble. For the base of the tail, you’re going to have to notch the plastic piece so it fits up against something or the tail might still have the rotational issue (solved in the above steps by how you secure the wire to the base of the tail.)
But really, if you go the easier way the ‘wire kibble’ is not something very noticeable in person, given the distraction of the uber poseable tail.
And that’s it for my ultimate Ravage tail mod!
If you’ve been following along, you now have a Ravage with a fully articulated, spiky tail o’ doom.
“Spiky? Don’t you mean cuddl-URK!”
Yeah, I’d still say spiky. Sharp and spiky.
“Awww. He’s hugging my insides too!”